Discover the denim cheat code to give your outfits the edge
For those who know where to look, there's a surefire tell that a man is into quality clothes. Forget about big designer logos and flashy footwear. Instead, cast your eye down to the cuff of his jeans. See that crisp white line sealing the edges of the material? That's a selvedge line – the defining characteristic of selvedge denim – and it's a dead giveaway that you're dealing with a guy whose appreciation for menswear runs deep.
Selvedge denim is usually (but not always) a hallmark of quality. It's a type of denim that tends only to be found in premium garments, and it gives the traditionally rough-and-ready material a subtle touch of refinement and sophistication. But there's no shortage of confusion around the term.
So, what is selvedge denim, is it worth the inflated prices, and who are the brands doing it best? Keep scrolling to find out all of this and more.
What Is Selvedge Denim?
This stuff is woven using traditional shuttle looms, which produce fabric with tightly bound edges that won’t fray. The name "selvedge" comes from "self-edge," referring to the clean, self-finished edge along the fabric. This process differs from modern production methods, where wide looms are used to cut denim into pieces, often leaving messy looking unfinished edges.
One of the distinctive features of this type of denim is the coloured thread running along the edge, which is often visible when the jeans are cuffed. Because it’s woven slower than mass-market denim, selvedge denim is typically stronger, denser, and considered of higher quality.
Can You Wash Selvedge Denim?
Yes, you can wash it, but less is more when it comes to cleaning this fabric. Particularly if it's of the raw, unwashed variety. The beauty of raw denim is that it moulds to your body over time, developing a rich patina unique to the wearer, and frequent washing can diminish this effect. It’s generally recommended to wear raw jeans for several months before washing them for the first time. When you do wash them, opt for cold water and either hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle. Air drying is preferred to maintain the fabric's integrity.
Is Selvedge Denim the Same as Raw Denim?
No, it's not the same as raw denim, though the two are often confused. Selvedge refers to the way the fabric is woven, whereas raw denim is simply denim that hasn't been washed or treated after production. While many raw jeans are made from selvedge denim, not all selvedge denim is raw. You can find pre-washed or “washed” selvedge denim, which won’t require the same break-in period as raw denim.
Is Selvedge Denim Worth It?
For many, investing in this type of denim is worth it because of its clean looks and premium feel. These jeans are made to last, and over time, they develop personalised wear marks based on how you move and wear them. Unlike cheaper jeans, which might need replacing after a year or two, a well-cared-for pair of selvedge denim jeans can last for years, even decades if you get them repaired well. If you value craftsmanship, quality materials, and longevity, this stuff is definitely worth considering.
The Best Selvedge Denim Brands for Men
Now that you know what it is and why it’s worth it, let’s explore the best brands that offer quality selvedge jeans for men. It's worth noting that there's an entire subgenre of menswear dedicated to high-end denim, but a lot of the brands in that scene are very niche and can be difficult to get outside of places like Japan and the USA. For that reason, we've stuck to accessible brands that offer a solid gateway into the world of selvedge jeans. Consider them the tip of this indigo iceberg.
Levi’s
Levi’s dominates the denim market, but its Levi’s Made & Crafted line elevates things with premium selvedge options. The brand sources fabrics from the renowned White Oak mill and crafts these jeans in Japan. These pieces seamlessly blend timeless design with artisanal craftsmanship. Whether you prefer a classic fit or something more modern, Levi’s selvedge denim jeans perfectly balance heritage with innovation.
Edwin
Edwin, a pioneer in Japanese denim, consistently delivers top-tier quality through meticulous craftsmanship. The brand uses traditional looms, producing raw selvedge options that allow wearers to create unique fades over time. If you seek authenticity and premium materials, Edwin will not disappoint.
Closed
Closed brings a European twist to the denim game, focusing on sustainability and modern design. These jeans often feel softer right off the shelf, appealing to those who want the selvedge look without a long break-in period. Closed combines Italian craftsmanship with sleek, contemporary silhouettes, making it a solid choice for premium denim without sacrificing comfort.
A.P.C.
A.P.C. stands out for its minimalist designs, and its jeans follow suit. The brand has become a go-to for those who appreciate understated, refined aesthetics. A.P.C.’s raw selvedge jeans take time to break in but reward wearers with a fit and fade entirely unique. If simplicity and style matter to you, A.P.C. should be on your list.
Nudie
Nudie Jeans, a Swedish brand, blends style with ethics by offering organic selvedge denim crafted under fair trade conditions. Nudie’s jeans age beautifully, with the brand encouraging wearers to extend the time between washes to develop distinct fades. For eco-conscious shoppers, Nudie offers both style and sustainability.
RRL
Ralph Lauren’s RRL line channels vintage Americana to deliver a premium take on selvedge denim. Made in the USA with high-quality materials, RRL jeans evoke a ruggedness reminiscent of early 20th-century workwear. If you want to combine history with luxury, RRL offers an excellent selection.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone captures New York’s downtown vibe and puts a modern twist on denim. The brand pays homage to traditional techniques, but its jeans feature contemporary fits and finishes. Perfect for urban lifestyles, Rag & Bone’s selvedge denim range blends heritage craftsmanship with modern style.
Naked & Famous
Naked & Famous delivers high-quality Japanese denim at a more accessible price point. The brand experiments with unique fabrics and innovative techniques, producing everything from ultra-heavyweight denim to unconventional colourways. For something a little different, Naked & Famous offers a great entry into the selvedge world.
OrSlow
OrSlow is a Japanse brand that champions slow fashion, and its selvedge denim reflects that ethos. The brand produces jeans in small batches, focusing on precision and care. OrSlow’s relaxed fits and vintage-inspired designs cater to those who prefer a laid-back, timeless aesthetic.
Drake’s
Drake’s, primarily known for its tailoring and upscale casualwear, steps into the selvedge denim world with impressive results. The British brand’s selvedge jeans offer a refined, understated look that complements their famous blazers and knitwear. With production in Japan and premium fabrics, Drake’s provides an ideal option for those seeking a smart-casual vibe.
FrizmWORKS
FrizmWORKS, a South Korean label, merges modern design with traditional craftsmanship. The brand’s jeans stand out for their clean lines and practical details. FrizmWORKS offers high-quality denim at an accessible price, making it a brand worth exploring for anyone seeking something new in selvedge.
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